Tuesday, August 9, 2011

HOME

We woke up early to pack the big backpacks and head to the Metro for our final leg of the journey. Julia had already made this trip so she lugged her little (GIANT) suitcase back into the subway and we were on our 2 trains to the airport. We checked in for the last time, killed a few sleepy hours at the airport and used the last of our euros to get sodas and snacks for the plane. It was a great flight home and we were met at the airport by our mom and dad, not only to drive us home but because our dad had a flight to Australia. We had a quick reunion at the airport and then Dad was off. We were met at home by a giant Thanksgiving dinner that mom whipped up - a true American feast and we were joined by the boyfriends to the feast. It was wonderful and Mom really outdid outdid herself.

We had the trip of a lifetime and enjoyed the adventure. It was amazing and we were blessed to have had the opportunity to travel as sisters, students and girls in their 20's.

Thank you to all who read our blog!!!

Tinto de Verano, Tapas and Tempranillo

From our lovely Hotel Gran Velazquez we walked around the entire city of Madrid on our last day. Katie made a brilliant discovery - the Reina Sofia modern art museum was free for all after 2:30pm! So we walked around, saw the Palace and the major Plazas, and then bought lunch in a little grocery store. Once again fresh bread, cheese and jamon was our least expensive and most delicious find. We also enjoyed some of Julia's favorite - tinto de verano. Red wine in a plastic bottle for 2 euro actually tastes delicious, especially on a hot summer day. We ate lunch and fed the pigeons in the Parque Retiro and did a bit more strolling. We were exhausted.

We came back to the hotel and took unplanned siestas before getting ready for our last meal out on the town. We looked up recommended tapas restaurants and headed to the La Latina stop on the metro. We weren't sure how sketchy this place would be and had our guard up a bit in this neighborhood (remember, we were traveling with a local - Katie lived in Madrid for an entire summer!). We lucked out and loved the entire area. We walked by about 10 recommended little restaurants and each was more adorable than the next. We picked a fancy trendy place for sangria and croquettas (cod with raisins and spinach - who knew?) then a sleepier old place for bruschetta style tapas with friend eggs and veggies with wine. It was at a place called Tempranillo and it was delicious!

We went home full and happy after the perfect night out in Spain.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

The Train to Spain Stays Mainly in the Plain

We bid farewell to Barcelona and hopped the Metro to the Sants train station to buy the anticipated $50 train ticket to Madrid.

They were about 8 times as much.

So... lacking an alternative...

We took a very, very, very fancy train to Madrid!

It was a high-speed rail that reached 280 km per hour, which was really neat. We were joined at a few stops by seat-mates. We witnessed a really, really funny old couple that couldn't find a place for their suitcases come aboard and proceed to stand on top of the little cafe table to get their luggage situated. The table nearly collapsed and was permanently destroyed - we all shared laughs as they lied to the conductors and seemed perplexed as to how they were seated at a broken table.

The ride was smooth and we were soon back in Atocha! We were 2 blocks away from the hotel the family stayed at when we spent time here with Katie in 2007. It was really nice to be back.

Once again we took a lovely walk through Parque Retiro and a few of Katie's other favorite places as memories flooded back for her. It was gorgeous!



We took a snack break at a pastry shop to ensure we'd last for a late-night European meal. Bad idea. Katie had a nice little croissant, while Julia and I ate giant creme-filled pastries that almost made us sick... we just couldn't stop... they were so good... so we continued to walk that off and made our way to El Imperfecto, a bar Katie visited while she was here studying. Famous for their mojitos with brown sugar. We sat outside in a plaza and enjoyed! Julia and I shared a lovely pitcher of sangria.

We walked by the place where our family had dinner four years ago and took photos there, then settled on a cute little restaurant for tapas. Our best find yet! We shared a funny cab ride home where the night air (and sangria) got me talking politics with our cab driver. Lots of laughs from all.

A great day in Madrid! Today is our last full day and we are hoping to take advantage of the weather and free museum days. We're off!

-The girls

Sagrada Familia, Chupitos and Dow Jones

To get the most out of our only full day in Barcelona we got up early and took the Metro to the Sagrada Familia stop to see Antoni Gaudis famous church. Julia had been here with her friends earlier in the summer, and while Katie and I didn't want her to re-trace any steps on this adventure, we were glad we did. It was a Bascilica unlike any other I could imagine.




We had to buy tickets for a later viewing time because of the crazy crowds, so we first went to Gaudi's famous Park Guell. He was a brilliant architect and the park was really neat to walk around and explore. Julia was a great tour guide and between the incredible heat and the time slot to see the Sagrada Familia, we did a brisk tour and were then on our way back to the city.





We then strolled downtown near Las Ramblas to see a market that came highly recommended (but with strong warnings against pick-pockets). It was beautiful and reminded us of the Vancouver and Seattle outdoor markets... but with a lot more garbage and rotting fish, which on a 95 degree day was pretty... interesting.

Taking a break to stop by our FAVORITE old hostel (we had to get proof that the place was actually through the door to a coin shop)



Then it was time for our big night out! Julia took us to her 2 favorite places - Chupitos to start, which is a bar that only sells shots. We 'tasted' quite a few items off the menu and had a good laugh with the bartender when a giant cockroach ran across the bar and Katie and I both yelled "LA CUCARACHA!" in warning. The bartender jumped like a little girl and chased it with a blowtorch. It was very funny and our signal to move on with the evening.


We went to Dow Jones, a stock-market themed bar where the prices rose as demand increased. We were a little to early to enjoy the scene in its entirety but we had a great time reading the ticker and watching the screens.

It was off to bed before the trip to Madrid!

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Barcelona!

When Katie, Julia and I decided that our last leg of this big trip should include a flight to Barcelona and a train to Madrid, we immediately booked a hostel in Barcelona. We used the same methods for all other places we have stayed at: We got accommodations for three people at a relatively inexpensive place with good ratings for location and cleanliness.

After a looong day of travel and with our big packs on our back, we were glad to arrive upon the Sun & Moon Hostel in downtown Barcelona. The reception looked nice and was 24 hours - we checked. So, I paid for our 2 nights and we were handed a key....

Then they walked us across the street and unlocked a door inside a coin shop. Which looked like Spain's 'Check-into-Cash' type of store. We then walked up about 6 flights of stairs to an unmarked door... which lead us to another unmarked door... where our room was.

Sure, there were 2 beds. Does A/C matter if the windows don't seal? The room was a DIVE and each of us took in more details as the minutes passed - the mysterious gunk on the walls, the lack of a solid door to the room... Katie noted that you could see into other bathrooms from the unexposed stairway we walked up... in short, we had the heebie-jeebies. (In castelan its the 'heebie-jeebith')

So we put our backpacks back on and marched ourselves back down the nasty staircase, past the coin-shop man, and across the street to the '24hour reception desk' and demanded our money back. I was in a fury, but I believe I used the words 'disappointed' 'deceived' 'dangerous' and 'misleading' alongside 'immediate departure' and 'full refund'. We did the best we could on the financial side of it and high-tailed it outta there.

Which left us on the streets (it was on an alley, really) of Barcelona with a map and our backpacks. The adventure had begun! Katie and Julia were cool as cucumbers while my redhead fury continued to storm. We traced our steps back to a bar we had passed called 'Travel Bar'. It was perfect - a total ex-pat bar with free internet and tons of friendly Americans that recommended the hotels and websites they had found in the area. 2 orange sodas and 30 minutes later, we were booked and in a cab to our nice little hotel in a neighborhood a bit more removed from the very beaten path of La Rambla. We are safe, clean and happy!

After getting our spirits back up we took the suggestion of one of Julia's friends and took off for the Xampañeria, a cava bar from 1929. It was adorable and in our exhaustion we got tapas for dinner across the street. We didn't even make it back for a glass of cava but took a stroll for gelato before heading in for the night. It was relaxing and very fun. Tapas were just what we craved - croquettas, patates with fried eggs and sausage, fried camembert, artichokes, eggplant. Delicioso!

The other thing we've loved noticing about Barcelona is the language difference. I really expected to see Spanish and perhaps a touch of Catalan from the region, but things here are much more like French than Spanish, down to the exit signs and menus. It really is amazing.

I think we have been blessed to have traveled such border regions this entire time because to learn about a cultural through a literal progression is one of the clearest ways to see what makes us different and similar to our neighbors. Germany to Austria and then Austria and Northern Italy overlapped so incredibly, from the food to the architecture. To me, the same is true here in Barcelona - the food, language, architecture, street signs and landscaping look like a cross between Madrid and what I saw in Paris. These details are one of the reasons I love not just learning about language and culture but really travelling .

The other best part about travel, at least this trip, is the experience I'm having with my sisters. And with that, we're off for the evening! Julia has promised us a bar called 'Dow Jones' where the price of drinks change on an electronic screen as the popularity of said drink changes with the demand of the crowd. We'll consider it a study in economics.

Off to enjoy the last night in Barcelona!

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Ciao, Italia!

[Just to be clear to our readers, we thought the long titles of our previous posts were funny - in fact, Julia was in tears each time. This blog is a duress-free production and no one is forced to write anything, we promise]

Tess here! Katie and Julia are still sleeping, and after you read about this travel day, you'll see why.

Our last night in Italy was just gorgeous. We dressed up after our nap and took a stroll though downtown Verona for a snack and a drink. We settled in at a lovely table overlooking the Piazza Bra' and the Arena di Verona and enjoyed a bottle of wine. (Julia was looking extra-pretty, so our waiter gave us 3 antipasta plates to enjoy on the house. He didn't realize we would consider this our dinner and cease to order any food!) We continued our stroll and went gelato shopping. Success all around!

Wednesday morning was a very early start by our standards. We were up at sunrise to pack, say goodby to the Franciscus Guesthouse (and the smelly cat that lived there that Julia was convinced was a street cat that we should just let out the front door) and walked with Hansel and Gretl (our backpacks) to the Verona train station. The 7:32am train to Milano was on time and quite fancy by the train standards we've developed. It was a quick hour-and-a-half to Milano. We loved the enormous old train station and proceeded immediately to the shuttle buses to the Malpensa airport.

An hour later we were on a coach bus-ride to the airport. I was convinced someone was going to steal our backpacks from the undercarriage of the bus, but we succeeded in watching like hawks and everything made it to the airport.

As the Italians seem to big very keen on one ticket window being open at a time, we could not check into our flight - thats right, the entire airline had one desk for all flights for the entire day. We did what we do best in Italy: read our books for two hours while enjoying $1 cappucinos! Just a lovely way to spend an afternoon, regardless of airport setting.

We had a smooth check-in and the flight to Barcelona was only an hour and a half. We hopped a very cute shuttle bus to downtown Barcelona and had no problems... until we got to the hostel! We got there around 5pm, and by 5:30 we had already checked out!! The situation is since resolved but we had a rocky afternoon worthy of its own post. All is well and we are at a new hotel - the whole story soon!
More from Spain later today!

Tess

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

All 3 are Writing this Post b/c I Am Holding Katie and Julia's Shoes Hostage if They Refuse to Participate. Seriously. Their Shoes are In The Safe.

Hi its Katie!
I awoke finding that I still had songs from the Sound of Music stuck in my head. Julia's resentment of the alarm reminded me that we were no longer in the hills of Salzburg but in Verona! We haven't been hungry since we arrived in this fair city, but we had a big breakfast anyway. Cappucinos all around. We attempted booking the next (and final... and last minute... and still unknown) leg of our journey but the ancient computer had other ideas. After two rejected bookings and 30 minutes of wasted sunshine we gave up and got directions to an internet cafè. We found a FNAC (our local guide Julia pronounces it 'Fi-knack' - she said they had them in Alicante) and used their 'high speed' (read 'normal') internet to book flights to Barcelona and a hostel. Success!

Naturally we were famished after such an excursion. Computer time takes a lot out of us. So Katie bought a snack! Puff pastry with nutella. Check.

We scoured the streets for the next lunch option and found the restaurant Tess's boss recommended and then stumbled upon Juliet's Balcony! THE Juliet! Upon entry the walls are covered with international professions of love (Graffiti of hearts). The balcony was built in the 1920's and was very pretty. A short photo shoot later, moving on.

Julia here -- On to more important things! We continued our quest for lunch and dined at the spot recommended by the One and Only Ann and Joe, our most trusted sources for all things Italian. True to form, the restaurant Osteria Romeo e Giulietta was adorable, cozy and by far our best meal yet. It was a bargain and two courses each: K had 1) penne with saffron and zuchini and bacon and 2) polenta with gorgonzola and mushrooms. J had 1) tagliatelle with pesto and 2) salad de Giulietta. T had 1) pumpkin ravioli and 2) eggplant. IT WAS AMAZING! Thanks Ann and Joe!

Then we wandered the city and found the old theatre and a beautiful vista of the city. That meal (and the wine) and the 90+ degree heat rendered us absolutely usless for the rest of the afternoon, so we headed back to the guesthouse for siesta time.

Now we're off for the evening! Looking forward to a stroll and food, if we can find any room...

Ciao,
T, K & J

Monday, August 1, 2011

Venezia

We are exhausted after a long day in Venice. It was our first day of real sunshine in a week and we have the freckles to show for it! Venice was amazing and only cost 6Euro to get there - still can't quite believe it. We got to town very, very early and enjoyed the quiet little streets before the tourists crammed in. We all agreed that the morning exploring the lesser known sites was our favorite part. And we saw it all - the Grand Canal, the gondolas, St. Mark's square. The weather was perfect and we had a lovely pizza break to get our energy back before finding the perfect place in Square Stefano for more pizza and calzones. Katie hit a home run and found a perfect bag for school this year and Julia and I rounded out the quest for Italian leather with wallets... which we hunted for in every shop and Julia ensured we got the best price. We also saw the bag our Mom got when she was here, so we knew it was a sign. The tiny little canals were my favorite part, and it was so crazy to figure out the map! We just soaked it all up and enjoyed walking aimlessly, peeking into shops and cooing over each balcony cuter than the next.

I really need to post pictures to show how great the day was, but I am literally typing on the oldest computer I have ever seen. It sounds like there is a car engine running next to me. We ended the day with some cannoli for the train. We are exhausted and back in Verona planning the next leg of our journey, which may be Barcelona before Madrid. Tomorrow we have to explore what we've not yet seen in Verona, including Giuliette's balcony and the restaurant Anne and Jo recommended! We still have to dine there- its a goal.

Happy, tired, and full of carbs,
T, K, J